Jun 15 2008
Dangerously Beautiful…..
My kids have become fascinated with volcanoes in Indonesia following reports of volcanic activities in the country the past few years since I have been here. So this time we headed to Mount Bromo in East Java. This is the 3rd active volcano we’ve visited after Mount Merapi in Central Java and West Java’s Mount Tangkuban Perahu.
I’m sure many of you have been to Bromo or at least read about it somewhere. Watching the crack of dawn at 2694 meters above sea level was just breathtaking. Mount Semeru was clearly in the background – spewing hot clouds the past week. Crossing the volcano’s “desert” on horse-back to the foot of the crater makes you feel like you’re Indiana Jones. Then the sulphur-choking climb – on foot - to have a ringside view of the volcano’s belly. Don’t forget to bring your puffer if you’re asthmatic.
Yes, of course it was dangerous. Bromo could just release its trapped energy while we were gazing at its belly. That was what happened a few years back. 2 people were killed – one of them was a Singaporean. And guess what? There’s not a single shelter for you to run for cover. And no ranger post either to warn of the impending danger. The only people you had to count on were the locals who run the horse-rental service. They are the Tenggeres – not Javanese. Hindus – not Muslim.
But even if there is a bunker, visitors may have a slim chance of surviving if Bromo decides to release its hot gas and ashes. That was what happened at Mount Merapi 2 years ago. 2 persons were cooked alive after the bunker they were taking shelter was covered by hot volcanic rocks and ashes. During one of my “live” crosses while covering Merapi, Dominic Loh asked me where I would run for cover if the volcano erupted. I simply answered – to the bunker. Hmmm…
Despite the potential risks, people still flock to view the volcanoes up close. Some how – whether as tourists or journalists - you tend not to think too much of the potential dangers when you’re close to the action. Most times you go by gut instinct and trust the judgment of the locals. Too bad if you happen to be at the wrong place and at the wrong time. You’ll miss the beauty of Indonesia if you only go to Bali. Like the sticker on my laptop says: Travel Warning – Indonesia, Dangerously Beautiful.
Dear Sujadi,
I recalled watching a documentary many years ago (in 1994, if I am not wrong) by the British Broadcasting Corp. (”BBC”) on how the life of a community in Bali and East Java is linked to Mount Agung and Mount Bromo, respectively.
Mount Agung is a pilgrimage site for the Hindu devotees in Bali and of course a tourist attraction too. However, it was interesting to watch during a ritual whereby the Hindu devotees will throw whatever they want to sacrifice into the crater of the mountain, and how an unspoken relationship between the Hindu devotees and those of other faiths formed. The Hindu devotees would throw goats, chickens, money, etc., into the crater but there will be those of other faiths frantically trying to catch the sacrificial items down below. I suppose, the Hindu devotees are practical people. Eventhough their sacrificial items were meant for the spirit of the Mount Agung, it is acceptable that another fellow human being actually benefits from them.
The villagers around Mount Bromo on the other hand looks at the mountain as a source of livelihood. They harvest the sulphur pieces from the crater of the quite ‘alive’ volcano, to earn a living for their family. It is a tough job but it provides them with good income. The sad part is the fact that the many men harvesting the sulphur will not be able to continue the work beyond the age of 40. Many will begin to suffer lung diseases from years of inhaling the poisonous gas within the crater. Many will also suffer physical deformities due to the heavy load they carry on their shoulders. Many of these men also dream of providing enough for their family, so that their sons do not have to end up working in the same ‘fiery fields’ of the mountain.
It will actually be great if CNA can produce a documentary on how the lives of communities in Indonesia revolve around the many volcanoes dotting the Indonesian landscape.
Kind regards.
I watched an episode of aircraft investigation on NGC recently - about a BA flight flying JKT to Perth in the early 1980s. It found itself in thick volcanic ash from one of the active volcanoes. The clouds contained fine volcanic particles which clogged the 4 engines, causing them to stop. They managed to restart the engines and land safely in JKT. That incident changed pilot training SOPS. I can’t even imagine what it will be like for the people living around Bromo. I wonder if they live in fear.
Btw, appreciate if you can post more pictures on your blog.
Hey Sujadi, nice laptop sticker. Travelling Dangerously in Indonesia also sounds neat, for a road movie. You can just imagine motorbikes falling into ditches as busses race to the next village.
Riding a horse up Bromo is a million times nicer. Watching the sunrise… turns one into a sunworshipper. I wonder though what happens if that volcanoe rim gets packed with all of us tourists.
What can you hold on to?
Btw. why is Adian Napitupulu, ironically a law grad? Demonstrating isn’t illegal. And as much as people should learn to trust their chosen government, the government should trust the people. Yes?
Yup, I’m Indonesian
Blog more!
You’re a lucky man Sujadi. Your kids loving the outdoor and nature unlike most urban kids these days. Your Mrs a toughie too, so i heard.
Post more pics if you pls. Least I can show my ponakans Singaporeans aren’t all spoit brats after all.
“Life is either a daring adventure or nothing” ~ Helen Keller
Life itself is risky. Authenticity requires courage. But it is only by challenging ourselves and constantly venturing into the unknown that we can ever truly experience the joy of being alive. There is a whole new world on the other side of the lines pre defined for us. We will never benefit from or give benefit to, the other side of the line if we never color beyond our boundaries and explore..
cheers!
tash
Pak Sujadi, welcome to the blogging world.
FYI, that sticker in your laptop was produced by Pak Iwan. I believe he has a blog here: http://indonesiabertindak.multiply.com/
Hey, do a story about him lah..
Oh man…
Mount Bromo… was supposed to go there but then some kid played to close and died thus cancelling my trip.
Nevertheless, I’ve been to another beautiful ex-volcano. Tanguban Perahu. (Cant remember exactly how its spelled).
It’s dormant but there’s still loads of sulphur. Managed to bring some sulphur home too courtesy of the guide who took me on a little adventure further away from the normal tourist track.
bali tour travel…
Its very nice, i love it….
I found your site on technorati and read a few of your other posts. Keep up the good work. I just added your RSS feed to my Google News Reader. Looking forward to reading more from you down the road!
Hi,
I just cameback with my sister’s family from Java. We had a splendid trip to Mount Kelud and Mount Bromo on 9th and 10th August. If anyone has not been to Kelud in Kediri, its time to see the magnificient and awesome view of the newly born gunung berapi (Oct 2007). Yes, travelling there was Dangerously Beautiful. Luckily we have a family fren who is a Volcanologist (from Jogja) who became our guide and her explanation was very informative for a singaporean who knew nothing abt Volcanic eruptions and explosions! Thank you to Mbak Sri Sumarti!